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Wrap-Up from Vienna

As promised, I’m posting a few additional photos from my travels to Vienna, Austria last week.  The top two photos are a detail from Hofburg Palace and a view of St. Peter’s Church in the rain.

Hofburg PalacePeterskirche

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next is a detail from St. Peter’s.

Peterskirche Detail

 

Finally, the last two are shots from St. Stephansdom:  the organ on the left and a detail of the pulpit and nave on the right.

More to come…

DJB

Organ at St. Stephansdom

St. Stephansdom

The Best Places to Raise Your Children…Murfreesboro Edition

Murfreesboro Courthouse

(NOTE: See my 2020 update to this post here.)

Business Week magazine just included Murfreesboro, Tennessee as one of the best places to raise your children.  Well, if they’d just asked me I could have told them that a long time ago.

For years now, I’ve been using a little vignette about growing up in Murfreesboro as a part of a talk I give about the livability of towns and cities.  While Business Week focuses on Murfreesboro as a recession-proof college town, I believe there’s a lot more to it.

When I think of home, I remember 407 East Main Street in Murfreesboro.  I grew up in Murfreesboro when it was a city of 35,000 people.  My parents bought a simple 1880s-era home on Main Street because it had an apartment where my grandmother could live with us.  Over the course of twenty years, four generations of our family lived under this roof.

Murfreesboro has a history that was very real and very present to me as a child.  I could walk four blocks to the town square, where the 1850s courthouse (see photo above) served as a reminder of Nathan Bedford Forrest’s 1862 raid on the city.  In a time before Murfreesboro’s streets were given over completely to cars, I often bicycled out to the Stones River National Battlefield on the edge of town, because I was fascinated by the story of that terrible battle around New Year’s Day in 1863.  As I grew older I could walk to my job at Martin’s Drug Store on the square, or stop in for lunch at the City Café – both located in buildings that had a history.

My high school was two blocks away in the opposite direction.  This 1960s building was located on the site of the Tennessee School for Women, an early educational institution in a town where education was important.

The core of Murfreesboro – what today has been identified as its “historic district” – was very livable.  We were one block from our neighborhood grocery store, where the bag boys like my younger brother Joe could often be seen carrying groceries home for the older residents in our neighborhood.  Mr. Clardy, who ran that grocery store, also managed what was then called a “guest home” three doors down from our house on Main Street.  This fabulous Queen Anne style mansion was a home-away-from-home for businessmen traveling to the city.

I was three blocks away from the Baptist Church and its early 20th century building, where I spent a good deal of time, but I could have been just about any denomination and still walked from my house to the local congregation’s home.  The public library, where my mother was the children’s librarian for many years, was five blocks away in a renovated post office building.  Today we call this adaptive reuse.

“Main Street” sounds like the fashionable residential location for most communities, and it was true that we had our share of large Victorian mansions as neighbors.  But next door to our house was an apartment building – which was not the only one on the street.  We lived one block from what today would be called “affordable or workforce housing” and our neighborhood was mixed both racially and economically.  Until I stopped growing, I was a baseball and basketball junkie, and spare hours were spent on the school fields and courts with kids of all races and economic groups.  Our banker lived in our neighborhood.  But so did college fraternity boys, shopkeepers, housekeepers, and the wide range of people who made up Murfreesboro at that time.

We all went to school together, and the public schools in Murfreesboro were the pride of the state.  The community cared about its children, from providing good schools to providing an environment where my grandmother – and others of her generation like Mrs. Roberts and Mrs. Todd – could nurture us, help us feel safe, and receive care and love in return.

You may think that I am painting an idealistic picture of my childhood in Murfreesboro.  I will admit that we had our share of problems to address.  However, Murfreesboro at that time was designed in such a way that we had to work out our problems and we had built-in support structures that made such communication possible. 

And the Murfreesboro that I knew was not so much different from other communities in America built prior to World War II.

My father grew up on Second Avenue in Franklin, Tennessee, in a wonderful Victorian-era cottage.  I remember the house fondly from visits I made to my grandparents.  Like me, my father could walk to school, church, the grocery store, and the town square.  As a college student at Vanderbilt, he caught the Inter-urban bus from Franklin to Nashville daily – a transportation system that had evolved from an earlier streetcar line where my grandfather served a stint as a conductor.  As a young boy I would walk to the store one block from my grandmother’s house and pick up her groceries, which were kept on a tab until she stopped in to pay it later in the week.  That grocery store was in a converted church building, for once a building had moved beyond its original use it didn’t necessarily have to be torn down to remain productive.  My older brother Steve and I would be visiting my grandparents and hear the train whistle at the depot, which was at the end of the block.  We would both tear out the front door and make it down in time to look at the long trains moving through the town.  If we were lucky, the train stopped and we would talk with the engineers and conductors and hear about life on the railroad.  As a young boy, I loved exploring Franklin as much as I enjoyed exploring Murfreesboro.

Why is all of this important?  Because we have now raised an entire generation of citizens who have no idea what a wonderful and enriching place a city or town can be, especially for a child.  We are not building “communities” that connect our past and future anymore and many citizens no longer feel they have a “home.”

The way of life lived in my father’s generation – and I was lucky enough to get much of the same type of life – was inexpensive and fostered a sense of community.  Elderly people like my grandmother served as neighborhood watchdogs.  Children like me could be independent – riding our bikes or walking throughout the neighborhood – while still being observed by adults who knew our parents.  The middle class, poor, working class, and upper class patronized the same schools, stores, and public places.  We knew each other and everyone had a stake in maintaining public order.  And though my father no longer owns 407 East Main Street, it is still the house that I think of when I hear the word “home.”

So Business Week got it right…but they don’t know the half of it.  Children need community – places like Murfreesboro and Franklin and Staunton, Virginia – all places I’ve lived and loved.  But there are great communities in cities, like in Silver Spring, Maryland where we currently live, where great neighborhoods are within walking distance of a revitalizing downtown and beautiful Sligo Creek and a short metro ride away from downtown Washington (which has its own share of great neighborhoods).  So even if you don’t have children, look for real communities.  They’re the best places to live!

More to come…

DJB

Watching the U.S. Election from Vienna

As noted earlier in the week on More to Come…, I spent election night on a plane over the Atlantic.  So I was so happy to see the video below.  No matter  your political persuasion, the historic nature of last Tuesday’s decision by the American people has to touch you.  Sitting here in the lobby of a hotel in Austria, I got emotional watching this 10 minute video summary of election night and wanted to share it with you.

More to come…

DJB

A fitting day for a Viennese funeral

Today was cold, gray, and rainy in Vienna.  But since it was also the only day I had to tour the city, I hit the streets early bundled in my winter coat and sheltered (somewhat) by my travel umbrella.  It turned out to be a fitting day for a (Viennese) funeral.

For someone interested in history, architecture, and cities, being in Vienna for only one day on your first visit can be as frustrating as being a kid in a candy store with a very strict parent.  There are only so many things you can choose.  Luckily, my friends Jim and Janet (they of the great Western trip itinerary) had steered me to a wonderful (and relatively inexpensive) little family hotel that sits astride the St. Stephansdom and Hofburg districts of the city.  These are the names for the medieval city and the imperial city respectively.  So I could jump back and forth with ease and, in the course of a day, see 4 of the best churches in the city while also spending an hour with Mozart and another long stretch in the State Room of the National Library – a truly magnificent space.  Plus I got to walk (and walk) lots of streets.

Peterskirch Vienna

I began by heading over to St. Stephansdom (see picture above), the cathedral that is in the heart of the city and anchors the medieval town.  It is an impressive building, both inside and out, but I noticed police lines outside the church and limited access on the inside.  To cut to the chase, today was a state funeral at St. Stephansdom for Dr. Helmut Zilk, a former mayor of Vienna.  I got to watch some of the changing of the honor guards and even walked through with the mourners in the morning to get a better view of the altar.  But it meant that access to the cathedral was limited all day.  I’m heading back over later tonight to see if I can get in for another look, but I saw enough today to whet my appetite for that return visit.

I had hoped to climb the south tower and get the famous view of the Vienna rooftops, but I quickly shifted plans.  I went through an open door into a small street and suddently found myself face-to-face with the apartment building where Mozart lived for four of his most productive years and wrote the Marriage of Figaro among other works.  In 2006 this museum had a major make-over and now has a very lively interpretive program in spite of the fact that it has very sparse furnishings.  It was moving to think of being in the same space where Mozart’s musical genius did some of his greatest work, and I wish that my son Andrew could have joined me.   (He loves the movie Amadeus, which does get some mention here – mostly to correct the story.)

Afterwards, I made a stop at Peterskirch (or St. Peter’s Church) which sits directly in front of my hotel.  It dates from the early 18th century and it contains (from the description in my guidebook) an “eye-catching pulpit by the sculptor Matthias Steindl.”  I included the photograph as the second one in this post.  I was challenged all day on photographs, due to the very dark weather and the less than perfect light that made indoors.  Nonetheless, I hope you’ll see some of the richness of the detail.  (And speaking of photographs, I want to come back here with my daughter Claire.  I took about 150 photos today, but everyone I took I tried to think about how Claire would look at the composition.  She would love this city – as much for the fashionable shopping district as for the photography opportunities! If you want to see some of Claire’s work, check out A Few Classic Photos from our western trip.)

By now, it was time for lunch.  So I walked a bit and found a nice little cafe where I could have some risotto and wine while resting my weary legs.  Candice and I share a love for good food and often talk about great little cafes.  She would have loved this one.  (Can you tell I enjoy traveling with my family?!) 

Hofburg Palace Vienna

Suitably fortified, I ventured forth to check out the imperial side of Viennese history and toured the Hofburg palaces.  I loved the statuary (doesn’t this guy above look like he’s ready to belt it out of the park!) but the real highlight was the Pruksaal, or State Hall. 

State Hall, Vienna

What a magnificent space!  My poor photos won’t do it justice, because they didn’t allow flash photography and I was working off our little inexpensive digital camera.  Nonetheless, you’ll get a sense of this space, which is filled with statuary and lined with books.  (Check on the link above to see a photograph of the State Hall taken by a real photographer!)  I wanted to stay there for hours, but knew I had to press on.

My plan was to get back to St. Stephansdom by 4 p.m., when the sign said it would re-open to visitors.  But as I walked by I saw that the funeral was still going on (more about that in a minute), so I headed down to see another fantastic church, Jesuitenkirche, and visit my first Viennese catacomb.  This church (pictured below) was built in the 1600s and my guidebook says that the Jesuits – leaders of the Counter Reformation – were “not afraid of making a statement.”  I’ll say!  Even in the very dark light (which lightened somewhat as the eyes adjusted), it was easy to see that this was a stunner.  I also took a trip down into the tunnels below the church into the crypt.  Because the light was so poor, I’ve included this rather ethereal photo of the organ – one of several beautiful instruments I saw during the day.

Jesuitenkirche Organ

Finally, I headed back to St. Stephansdom Cathedral to wait out the funeral.  Given Andrew’s experience as a cathedral chorister, I knew all about the security at state funerals and also knew they could run long.  But this one turned interesting.

Funeral Service Video

On the side of the cathedral they installed a big screen TV.  So I joined thousands of Viennese to watch the end of the funeral.  And what a treat.  The former mayor of Vienna (who lost a hand in a 1993 letter bombing) was taken out to the strains of the Vienna Philharmonic playing Strauss waltzes.  What a way to go!  The sound was great, and as the waltzes ended the big bell in the North Tower (pictured on the big screen as well) began to toll.  So those of us in the street got to hear the bell live AND on video at the same time.  It was great, and I got to hear some Viennese music that was “almost live” on my first visit.

I still have some time tonight to tour.  (In case you’re wondering, I posted this now to 1) get it on while I still had my 24-hour window available on the T-Mobil Hot Spot and 2) to rest my weary bones for a while.)  I’ll probably put up a few final pictures sometime over the next couple of days, but I hope you enjoy these in the meantime.

More to come…

DJB

When You Need More Water…Have St. George Slay a Three-Headed Dragon!

St. George Slays the Dragon

Last evening in Bratislava, i went with friends and colleagues from the International National Trusts Organisation (INTO) to a lecture and reception hosted by the Slovakian Ministry of Culture and the National Trust of Slovakia.  The evening was at a former palace for the Roman Catholic Cardinal in Bratislava, and so was very opulent and grand.

We entered through a courtyard and came across the statue of St. George slaying the dragon that you see at the left.  We were admiring it when someone said, “I didn’t know St. George had to kill THREE dragons.”  Well, we looked closer and there was only one dragon, but this variety had three heads.  One bit of speculation was that the Cardinal simply wanted more water in the fountain and a three-headed dragon was the answer.

Whatever the reasoning, it was another good day for our meetings, which were held at the University Library in Old Town.  The library was part of a complex of three historic buildings, which have been adaptively reused.  The courtyard (see photo) made for a beautiful entryway into the library.  And since there were multiple buildings (although they were all connected on the inside), it was fun to sit in our board room and  hear the occasional street singer’s tunes rising up from the alleyway below that separated the buildings.

University Library

Between the meetings, lectures, and receptions, it was great to reconnect with friends and colleagues.  One of the unexpected pleasures of getting to represent the National Trust on the INTO Executive Committee is that I’ve come to know – and become friends with – people from all across the world.  I so admire many of these people and it is a treat to spend time with them.  Mr. S.K. Misra is the head of the Indian National Trust (known as INTACH), and he and his wife have made such a difference in the lives of so many people by using heritage as a way to create jobs and provide livelihoods.  He gave a great lecture today in our closing seminar.  I also had the chance to reconnect with his niece, who is studying historic preservation in the United States.   S.K. is just one example of the good friends I’ve come to know, and on this trip we all reconnected.  I also met new colleagues from places such as The Netherlands.  It is quite a privilege to work with these individuals, plus they are just a great deal of fun.

After our closing seminar today, I bid the group good-bye, gathered my belongings, and hopped in a taxi to go to the train station to catch a train to Vienna.  Well, my taxi driver was English-challenged, and I’m certainly Slovakian-challenged, but he finally figured out where I wanted to go when he said, “Choo-choo?” and I nodded while saying, “Yes, yes.”  So we got to the Choo-Choo station ten minutes before the train was scheduled to leave.  After navigating the ticket buying process and finally finding the right track, I ran the last bit to jump on board with one minute to spare.  It felt good to sit and just be for an hour.

My taxi driver in Vienna had a better grasp of English, and he quickly got me to my hotel in the heart of the central city.  Vienna at NightAfter dropping off my bags, I went out for a breath of fresh air and to catch a bite to eat.  I took one picture of Vienna at night, and plan to fill up the memory card tomorrow on my day of sight-seeing before I return home.  I’m now sitting in the lobby of my historic hotel, working on my glass of wine, and finishing up this post before heading off to bed.

But a conversation in the bar next to me has reminded me of another part of this trip I’ll always remember.  It has been amazing to be in Europe on the days following Obama’s election as President.  In Bratislava it was all anyone wanted to talk about, and everyone – including strangers who just found out I was from the US – wanted to talk about the election.  Everyone was very excited about Obama and what it meant for America and the world.

Which is what makes the conversation in the bar so jarring.  There’s an American in the bar who is pontificating about America going to hell in a hand basket (my characterization) because we elected Obama.  Someone told me that Vienna was a conservative city.  But I didn’t expect to come here and immediately run into a disgruntled conservative American. 

Oh well.  I’m going to put that aside and remember the genuine excitement about our country from so many of the people I’ve met over the past three days. 

Look tomorrow evening for more photos from this wonderful city.

More to come…

DJB

Dinner along the Danube

A Courtyard in Bratislava

Bratislava, Slovakia is the only world capital that borders two other countries.  (Isn’t Wikipedia a wonderful thing!)  And last evening I had the chance to enjoy some of the best of this city with my friends and colleagues from the International National Trusts Organisation (or INTO).

After my all-night flight on election night, I arrived in Vienna around 9 a.m. local time and caught a bus from the airport that took me the 45 minutes to Bratislavia.  The countryside between the airport and the city was very rural, broken only by the occasional wind farm and two delightful small historic towns (one of which still maintained its historic city wall surrounding the town).  Since the hotel where I’m staying didn’t take guests until 2 p.m. and I needed to do something to stay awake, I ate a bit of breakfast and then strolled the streets of Old Town Bratislava.

And I’m here to say that the historic core was hopping.  I was on the streets at lunch time and those streets were swarming with people eating lunch, tourists snapping photographs, and many more people simply out doing their jobs.  I learned at dinner last evening that the return of private property to individuals following the fall of the Soviet Empire has meant that most of the restoration in this district has taken place through private investment.  There are some beautiful state-owned buildings and a number of historic churches (see photo), but the vast majority are homes or shops.

A Church in Bratislava

I was able to check in and caught a couple of hours of sleep – just enough to get refreshed without missing dinner!  And I’m glad I made it.  Meeting up with about 15 colleagues from around the world, we were led by our hostess, Michaela, back through Old Town – which was beautifully lighted for the evening – eventually ending up with a walk along the Danube.  The restaurant where we had our opening dinner was the first project of the National Trust for Slovakia some 14 years ago, where they rescued a historic toll keepers house from demolition.  The walls of the restaurant were covered with old photographs of the bridges across the Danube.  We enjoyed our shot of brandy, some good Slovakian wine, and a tasty dinner topped by a sesame seed pastry for dessert.  I sat with the head of the Slovakian cultural agency for heritage, the head of the Gilderland Trust (Holland), our INTO Secretariat staff member Catherine Leonard, and several other colleagues for a delightful evening’s conversation.

And I’m still adjusting to the time change.  I think it is about 5 a.m. now in Slovkia.  I’m not 100% sure because I stopped wearing a watch about a year ago and my blackberry (which is now my version of a pocket watch) doesn’t automatically update itself to the local time.  I’m always calculating what 6 hours ahead actually means.  I’m sure I’ll do great until about 2 p.m. this afternoon…when I’ll be ready for that nap again.  So expect More to Come… posts at the weirdest hours over the next few days.

More to come…

DJB

What a strange, wonderful Election Day it has been

Greetings from Bratislava, Slovakia!  Not your normal post-election day dateline for the More to Come…blog.  Let me tell you how I ended up hearing about the presidential election results while flying over the Atlantic.

I woke up at home on November 4th and after the normal morning chores, I headed down to the library to vote.  Well, I wasn’t really surprised to find  that the line ran around the edges of BOTH parking lots and extended almost to the street.  Historic election indeed!  It was great, even if I did stand in line for 2 hours and 10 minutes before casting my vote.  But it felt good to be part of something so special and it felt REALLY good to vote with a positive feeling about a candidate (instead of the usual voting to play defense).  The local high school had some kids out selling coffee and pastries to help with relief efforts in Africa.  They did well, but they could have done gangbusters if they’d had chairs to rent or would have been able to give a back massage on one of those special chairs.  My back was hurting and my dogs were barking after 2 hours – but it was worth it.

So off to work for the rest of the morning.  My colleague Dolores and I had lunch on the 4th at Kramerbooks – the highly independent (and highly liberal) bookstore and restaurant at Dupont Circle.   We both started laughing when we saw the specials of the day.  Here’s how they read:

Halloween & Election Year Specials – Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid

Obama Family Chili – $12 – no charge if you make under $5/year – Perfect for a Socialist Underground Gathering

The Biden Pot Pie – $14 – Homey, Comfortable, Predictable – Worth a Two Hour Train Ride

McCain’s Ribs – $160 – $16 after tax rebate – “Squeezed with Lemons, because that makes it taste better.”  Maybe that’s why he kept grimacing at those debates.

Palin’s Alaskan Fisherwoman’s Saucy Salmon – Fresh Atlantic Salmon filet – just to piss her off.  A sort of culinary experience of unrelated events.

I decided on this historic day that I had to try the Obama Family Chili, and it didn’t disappoint.  Just the right amount of spices and lots of good toppings!

 

So by mid-afternoon I wrapped up things at the office and headed for the airport.  I was off for Slovakia for the meeting of the executive committee of the International National Trusts Organisation (or INTO).  Unfortunately, it was timed so that I would be in the air during the election coverage.  I saw 7 p.m. pass and knew the Virginia polls had closed.  Then 7:30 and 8:00 and then 9:00…and I knew that more and more polls were closing and that the race was being called – and I didn’t have a clue.  But thankfully, somewhere over the dark Atlantic, a flight attendant came through and told those of us who kept asking that Obama had won.  A quiet cheer arose around me.

 

I sat there in the dark and thought about what this means for America.  There’s so much to contemplate, so much to imagine.  But I kept thinking about how my mom was the PTA President during the time our local elementary school in Tennessee was integrated.  It was one of the most frustrating years of her life, and we heard about it at home.  She said the children weren’t the problem…it was the parents who fought integration.   Well, 40 years later, those children have grown up and guess what?  While we may not have imagined it possible at the time, those children – along with our children AND our parents – have just elected our first African American President. 

 

So, I’ll end where I began.  Here I sit in a restaurant in Bratislava, waiting to get my hotel room to catch a nap before dinner, and thinking about what a strange, wonderful election day this has been.

 

More to come…

DJB

In Praise of Sligo Creek

On a beautiful fall day at the height of the fall color season, Candice and I walked through Maryland’s Sligo Creek Park today and soaked up the wonders of nature.

The Washington area is blessed with parks and Rock Creek is the best known.  But where Rock Creek Park can be busy on a gorgeous day, nearby Sligo Creek Parkway – located five minutes from our front door – is a great alternative with less crowding. 

So we walked for an hour, breathed the fresh air, took a few pictures of the creek and the fall foliage, and tried to just “be.”  We hope you’ll enjoy.

More to come…

DJB

 

Wondrous Love

The old Southern Harmony tune Wondrous Love is right at the top of the list of my favorite songs no matter the genre.  I love the tune and it works in straight Sacred Harp style as well as in a more contemporary folk song.  As one person commented on a popular YouTube version of the song,

Speaking here as an unashamed agnostic… This is a lovely, dignified, decorous and beautifully restrained music.

To which I add, Amen.

So it was a treat at our parish this morning when Andrew & Claire joined a reunion of the children’s choir and nailed a beautiful version of Wondrous Love arranged by Steve Pilkington.  These 9 teenagers were supported by a beautiful piano setting and the tasteful and restrained addition of a few hand bells.  Andrew and Claire sounded lovely, and a good friend of Andrew’s sang a beautiful descant on the last verse. 

That last verse is the one that always gets me.  I think of it often and I always think of my mother, who gave me my love of music but died much too young:

And when from death I’m free I’ll sing on I’ll sing on
And when from death I’m free I’ll sing on
And when from death I’m free I’ll sing and joyful be
And through eternity I’ll sing on, I’ll sing on
And through eternity I’ll sing on

There are great versions by Anonymous 4, there’s a lovely YouTube clip by a beautiful singer named Deborah Liv Johnson, but my favorite version of the song (and the one that generated that comment above) is by the Bluegrass Band Blue Highway. I still remember hearing the band sing Wondrous Love at Merlefest in 2007.

Enjoy.

More to come…

DJB

Image by franz roos from Pixabay