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Observations from . . . cooler climes

Readjustment is the best word to describe our lives since we returned from the National Trust Tour to Scandinavia and the Baltic Sea. Body clocks have to reset after a seven-hour time difference. While we eat very well at home, it is nonetheless a change from cruise ship fare.

And as we visited countries from Norway to Estonia, we found ourselves occasionally putting on a fleece for an extra layer of warmth. We’re now shedding those clothes in the August heat and humidity of Washington!

But cooler temperatures are not really what we remember from this memorable twelve-day cruise. I’ve already captured thoughts about some of the special places here on MORE TO COME. * Now, as is my practice, I’m pulling a range of photos and impressions together for this wrap-up post as part of the Observations from . . . series. Enjoy!


Signs and street scenes

I tend to take pictures of buildings without people in front of them—a habit from my days of focusing primarily on the historic architecture. However, as I have come to appreciate that the essential feature of a landmark is not its design but the place it holds in a community’s memory, I’m now taking more photographs of people animating historic places. Here are a few examples from this trip along with a few signs that caught my eye.

Children mug for their mom’s camera in front of a creative and beautiful fountain in Oslo
Oslo street musicians, playing some smart gypsy jazz
Residents swarm to a beloved amusement park in the center of Gothenburg
Sampling the local baked goods in Haga
Couples in Riga secure a lock to this bridge when they get married, and they will stay together as long as the lock remains.
Street signs in Porvoo, Finland
Oslo street art
A reminder of what’s important in Sweden
Just another Michelin-rated restaurant tucked into an 18-century townhouse on a Copenhagen side street

A region that understands independence

The history of the Scandinavian and Baltic countries we visited is one of fiercely independent people who have endured generations—even millennia—of conquest and occupation. Signs of support for Ukraine were everywhere, because they understand Russian designs on other countries in a visceral way that provides an urgency not seen in the U.S.

Thoughts of the Russian occupation are never very far from one’s mind in the Baltic states
The independence monument sits in the heart of Riga
A Tallinn restaurant owner makes their disdain for Putin very clear

Sparking individual and collective memories

We visited a number of beautiful churches, large and small, while touring. Places of all types are so important in how we understand our past as they key both individual and collective memories and that is certainly true of religious sites.

Riga
Riga
Choral Synagogue Memorial, site of Nazi atrocities, in Riga
Orthodox cathedral above the Upper Town buildings in Tallinn

As is appropriate for this region so dependent on access to harbors and oceans, many of those houses of worship we visited recognized the beauty, bounty, and danger of the sea.

Masthugg Church, Gothenburg, Sweden
Altar at Masthugg Church
Reminder of the importance of the sea at Masthugg Church
Carving of a ship’s mast at Masthugg Church
Porvoo, Finland
Carved ship and pulpit in Porvoo
Sailor’s wife, looking out to sea in Gothenburg, Sweden

Celebrating the sun-filled days of summer

We spent time in a number of beautiful gardens and parks, with flowers and people all soaking in the 18-20 hours of summer sunlight.

The park across from our hotel in Oslo
Scene in the palace gardens in Oslo
Riga’s National Opera House
Park in downtown Riga
Copenhagen park and church

From Medieval to Modern

The architecture found in these seven countries runs the gamut from Medieval towns such as Tallinn, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site; to some of the world’s best collections of Art Nouveau architecture; to stunning pieces of modern architecture. Here’s a sampling out of my collection of hundreds of photographs.

Coming into Porvoo, Finland
The old town streets in Tallinn
Copenhagen
Gothenburg’s Haga neighborhood in the early morning
Fortress overlooking Haga neighborhood
Haga commercial street
Haga
Typical Helsinki street view
One of many archways hinting at interior courtyards . . . this one in Helsinki
And one of those courtyards where I was able to wander around . . . this one in Oslo
Oslo
Gdansk (credit: Unsplash)

In the early 1900’s Riga became the European city with the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture. There are approximately 50 buildings of high architectural value in the medieval section of the city and more than 300 in the rest of the Historic Center.

Credit: Unsplash

Virtually every city we visited mixed modern and historic buildings together, with varying degrees of success.

New housing along the canals in Copenhagen
Copenhagen’s Opera House
Norwegian Opera House in Oslo
Oslo
Riga’s central library
Front hall of the Gothenburg Opera House
Interior staircase at the Helsinki Central Library

Expanding our understanding of history

Tjolöholm Castle, built in the Swedish countryside between 1898 and 1904 by James Fredrik and Blanche Dickson, provides a somewhat different way to look at the question of how older places help shape our identity. The Tudor castle, gardens, and surrounding village were built for a wealthy merchant and may remind us of the grand homes of the Gilded Age in the US—places such as Kykuit, Lyndhurst, or Filoli, all National Trust Historic Sites.

Tjolöholm Castle (credit: Unsplash)

The Castle was largely completed under the direction of Blanche Dickson, as her husband passed away shortly after construction began. She had a vision and drive that was all her own, also commissioning a village with worker’s cottages in the National Romantic style. Her unquenchable ambitions turned the estate into a complete community. She built a castle church and a town hall where the estate’s workers could meet. The estate evolved into one of Scandinavia’s leading Arts and Crafts properties.

Credit: Unsplash
Castle church

In recognizing the role of a female in the building’s conception, construction, and evolution, I am reminded of two National Trust sites in the US where identity has evolved over time through study and interpretation: the Edith Farnsworth House and Cooper-Molera Adobe.

Come experience the world!

National Trust Tours are a great way to see the world and meet extraordinary people. Come join us on a future adventure.

With our friend Jan from Chicago at Tjolöholm Castle. We first met Jan this winter when she joined us on the Costa Rica and Panama tour
Enjoying a summer sunset on the Baltic Sea
Seeing the world with our friends Kerry and Frank from Washington
Candice enjoys a dip in the sea during a Finnish sauna experience
NTT travelers on the Scandinavia and Baltic Sea tour

More to come . . .

DJB


*For other posts about the Scandinavia and Baltic Sea trip see:


Photos by DJB except for a few additions from Unsplash

5 Comments

  1. jane schubert's avatar
    jane schubert says

    wonderful portfolio of photos! thank you

    please change my email . . . aol was hacked – no further comment needed!!!

    peace

    jane

    • DJB's avatar

      Jane, I have added your new email address to the subscribers list, and I’ll take off the AOL one. Thanks, as always, for reading and commenting. My next post will be on Wednesday. Please let me know if you don’t get a notice when it is posted (usually at 2 a.m.). Thanks again! DJB

  2. Pingback: Observations from . . . August 2024 | MORE TO COME...

  3. Kathy LaPlante's avatar
    Kathy LaPlante says

    I love the way they built their cities. LOVED the great photos.

    Kathy La Plante (she/her)

    • DJB's avatar

      Thanks, Kathy. I too love the way they’ve built their cities. Appreciate the shout-out for the photos. It is fun to try and capture these special places. Thanks, as always, for reading. DJB

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