I’m headed to Nashville this week for the National Preservation Conference where we’re sure to hear great preservation stories and good music. Putting the two together, I have collected some Americana and roots music for the conference staff to use prior to the Opening Plenary.
I kick off the set with the Martha White Theme (just seemed appropriate given the setting). However, finding preservation-based roots music can be tough. Most country songs that mention “home” generally deal with the loss of mother and dad or a true love – but not too much about the loss of the actual building. So most are instrumentals. The set does include that preservation bluegrass classic The Old Home Place by J.D. Crowe and the New South. However, my favorite is the Jim Lauderdale/Ralph Stanley Highway Through My Home. In honor of the Overton Park (Memphis) and 710 Freeway (California) battles…and so many more…click on the video below and enjoy.
Over the past two days the National Trust Council has toured a remarkable collection of Frank Lloyd Wright architecture located in Wisconsin. Along the way we saw icons and surprises.
The surprises came first.
We went to see a grouping of six houses on Burnham Street in Milwaukee that were designed by Wright in 1916 for what today would be called “affordable housing.” I knew about his later Usonian houses, such as the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Pope-Leighey House, which were focused on the same audience. But decades earlier Wright designed over 950 plans for “American System Built Homes.” Approximately 25 were built and six survive along Burnham Street. The Wright in Wisconsin organization owns several and has restored one which is open to the public. It provided us with a fascinating look at how Wright approached architect-designed houses on a budget, as you’ll see in the photos below.
Yesterday we visited three more Wright buildings. The first was Herbert Fisk Johnson’s home in Racine, Wingspread. This was Wright’s “last” Prairie style home and it is truly magnificent with incredible light. Special features: the central core of the building from which four wings radiate, the cantilevered bedroom for the Johnson’s daughter, and the glass cupola where the children could climb and see their father fly over the house in his plane. The house became a conference center in 1961 and the stewardship of this property is superb.
We then traveled down the road in Racine to visit the iconic Wright-designed campus of the S.C. Johnson Company. The Administration building and the research tower are world-renown architectural masterpieces, commissioned by H.F. Johnson and completed in 1939 and 1950 respectively. The company is now constructing “Project Honor” – a Norman Foster-designed complex – on the campus next to the Wright buildings.
We ended our tour of Wright in Wisconsin last evening in Milwaukee at the Frederick C. Bogk House, a privately-owned home designed the same year as the Burnham Street houses. This is a wonderful transitional Wright design where you can see the uses of concrete that shows up later in California homes such as the Ennis House.
The past two days included this wonderful introduction to Frank Lloyd Wright’s work in his home state. (Many people mistakenly think he was from Chicago.) As always, scroll over the photos to see the captions. Enjoy these photos of Wright in Wisconsin.
If Calatrava’s Milwaukee Art Museum is a symbol of the city’s optimism for the 21st century (see my previous post), then the City Hall is a fine example of the community’s spirit and optimism for the 20th.
But not content to remain in the past, City Hall is primed – after a 1988 interior restoration and a beautiful exterior restoration completed in 2009 – to showcase this unheralded gem of a midwestern city.
We were meeting across the street yesterday morning at the Pabst Theatre – another fine preservation project – when a number of us walked over to see what a colleague described as “an atrium you don’t want to miss.” Man, was he right!
The pictures here don’t really do the interior justice, but you’ll just have to take my word. This well in the central section of the building in the portion behind the tower is 20 feet by 70 feet and rises the full eight floors.
Enjoy the photos of City Hall (plus one I’ve thrown in of the Pabst Theatre). We’re touring some of Frank Lloyd Wright in his native Wisconsin during this trip, so look for some FLW in an upcoming post – including one set of houses that may be a surprise for you.
Oh my…what a building, what a sculpture, what a space, what an experience! The power of place indeed.
Just two weeks after seeing his bridges in Dublin, I had the opportunity to visit the Santiago Calatrava-designed Milwaukee Museum of Art today. I had seen the building on a drive-by a few years ago, but this was my first time to see it both inside and out. The internet is awash with both images and verbiage about this wonderful space. I’ll only quote the dean of the school of architecture at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee (and a member, along with our host, of the selection committee for the building) who told our tour group today,
“We got Calatrava when he was unknown and yet at the peak of his creative powers – sort of like the early Beatles, before they became superstars and started adding too many orchestrations.“
What you’ll see below is a series of photos showing the “flapping” of the beautiful white wings (really a sunscreen) from open to close. Extraordinary as that sounds, I was prepared for that sight. What I wasn’t prepared for was the beauty and gracefulness of the interior space. And I certainly wasn’t prepared to see the most elegant parking garage on the face of the planet (at least as I’ve seen it.)
This building opened shortly after 9/11, so much of the world’s attention was elsewhere. It has worn well over the decade and still remains a remarkable statement about the genius of an architect/engineer/artist and the vision of a community often described as industrial and conservative.
Enough rambling…enjoy the photos and, more importantly, consider a trip to Milwaukee to see this place.
What do you get when you ask the public to download a simple sign, find a place that is important to them, photograph themselves in front of that place holding the sign and then download it to the Internet?
More than 2,000 people took the National Trust for Historic Preservation (full disclosure: my employer) up on their offer, and the results are fascinating. When you have some time, go to the site, click on the slide show, and sit back and watch. I guarantee you’ll love it!
And now, the Trust is having a This Place Matters photo contest where you can go online and vote once per day for your favorite This Place Matters photo. The top three photographers win a digital camera. (Full disclosure: I am not eligible.)
You can guess which photo I’m voting for: Miller’s Grocery (shown above) in Christiana, Tennessee. (Full disclosure: I do not know the photographer or the subject.) I just love this picture. Perhaps it is because it comes from my home state (another disclosure). Perhaps I can just see myself sitting on the bench of a Tennessee country store with my dog by my side.
For whatever reason, I’m going online every day and voting for Miller’s Grocery. But you should view all 12 finalists and choose your own favorite. Perhaps you’ll fall for the kids in the Bronx. San Antonio’s old Humble Oil station may grab your heart. Or who knows, you may start crying reading the story of Hugh Smalling’s grave in Macon, Georgia.
The deadline for the contest is October 9th, but it is never too late to download a This Place Matters sign, find something that has special meaning and upload a photo at www.PreservationNation.org to tell the world about a place that matters to you. (Full disclosure: That’s me to the right in the photo below. It was not chosen as a finalist.)
Last Friday as I boarded my plane in Dublin, I opened the overhead bin and came across a banjo case. A nearby passenger asked if it was mine, and I said, “No, but I was going to ask the same question.” A slight man with a female companion sitting across the aisle identified himself as the owner of the case, which he said held a bouzouki.
Well, my antennae went up and I recalled an article I read on the flight over in the new issue of my favorite magazine, The Fretboard Journal. I dug in my bag, quickly found the article about bouzouki maker Edward Victor Dick and passed it along. It came back as the bouzouki owner pointed to a picture of Tony McManus in another part of the magazine and said, “I know this guy. He’s played on some of my recordings.”
At that my new acquaintances were asked to change seats so I could enjoy having a family with two children under the age of 4 across the aisle for a seven hour flight. (I’ve been there, so I was sympathetic.) On the way out, I stopped to talk with the bouzouki owner and his companion and introduced myself. He stuck out his hand and told me he was Billy Jackson. She introduced herself as Grainne Hambly, and as Billy headed back to claim the instrument, Grainne and I headed to baggage pick-up sharing musical interests and connections. They had been to the Swannanoa Gathering, where my good friend Tom Dews spent a part of his summer, and we discussed the wonderful traditional music to be found in the Asheville and Black Mountain areas of North Carolina.
Cut to the chase. I just met internationally known harper and composer William Jackson and Irish harper Grainne Hambly who were headed to the states for a series of fall concerts. Jackson was a founding member of Ossian and he and Hambly just released a new CD, Music From Ireland and Scotland. They are playing dates in North Carolina, Tennessee, and at the Virginia Harp Center in Richmond, Virginia on October 25th. I encouraged them to push their agent to get a slot on the IMT schedule in DC and Grainne told me that she will play an Irish Christmas in America Concert at the National Geographic in Washington on December 4th with the band Teada. It is now on my schedule! Check their web sites for tour dates, and go hear them if they are in your area.
Regular readers know I love The Fretboard Journal, so I was pleased it played a small part in this serendipitous moment. The fall issue is chock full of great stories. Banjo goddesses Abigail Washburn and Alison Brown talk about five strings, running your own record company, and the feminine approach to banjo playing. A story on the little known Larson brothers – makers of fine guitars that no one’s ever heard of – makes you want to run out and find one of their early 20th century creations. Wilco fans will salivate over the article on the band’s secret hideout. (I know this last fact to be true, as a colleague – and Wilco fanatic – practically tore the magazine from my hands when she saw the cover photo.) The Editor’s Note talks about meeting up with their fans at Merlefest – and I was certainly among that group. My recommendation: get a subscription. They never disappoint.
And for my last “Irish” post of the trip, I’ll provide you with some wonderful Celtic music performed by William Jackson and Grainne Hambly. Enjoy.
We have just completed a wonderful International Conference of National Trusts here in Dublin—the 13th in the history of the National Trust movement. I suspect that when a small group of Anglophiles gathered together in the 1970s in Scotland for what became the first gathering of the world’s National Trusts, they could not have imagined either the spread of their movement or the diversity of people, countries, issues and models that we have seen this week from among the 200+ delegates in attendance.
…and other tidbits of cultural commentary from an American in Ireland.
On our second night in Dublin we were enjoying a wonderful dinner in the historic Tailors Hall headquarters of An Taisce, the National Trust for Ireland. I had the pleasure of sitting between the An Taisce past-president and a board member born in that far-away Irish town of Knoxville, Tennessee. (His wife is Irish and as a software engineer he had the freedom to work from home.) It was a delightful evening filled with laughter from the witty conversation. I was on my best behavior, so I was surprised when all of a sudden my Irish seatmate – a distinguished botanist – turns to me and says, “Why do you hate your knife?”
In typical American fashion, I was using my knife and fork to cut my food then placing the knife on the side of the plate while switching the fork to my right hand to eat. She proceeded to give me a lesson on “eating Irish style” so that the fork stayed in my left hand (and never turned over) while the knife stayed in my right. We laughed some more, and I told her that my daughter Claire ate this way (as did many of her friends). My Tennessee-born seat mate told me that his wife had been working on him to switch for 18 years, to no avail. He did, however, save me further embarrassment (and lessons) by leaning over as I picked up my dessert fork to say, “Europeans eat all desserts with their spoon.” That I could master!
While the food throughout my week was very good (thank you An Taisce), I’m not a fan of the “traditional Irish breakfast,” as was served every day in my hotel. But breakfast did give me the chance to read the Irish Independent newspaper. I love the diversity of the English language, as seen in headlines such as “Dozens left injured by bus and transit smash.” Smash. What a great, descriptive, way to talk about a crash.
The best traditional meal actually came on my last evening with a visit to Gallaghers Boxty House. The boxty – an Irish potato pancake – was filled with lamb and covered with a very tasty sauce. It was a great way to end a wonderful visit.
As part of today’s International Conference of National Trusts, I joined a tour into the countryside to explore a bit of Irish history and see rehabilitation and interpretive efforts at work.
Our host for the conference, An Taisce, the National Trust for Ireland, owns a 1748 canal running through Ireland’s valley of the kings along the River Boyne. The canal is under restoration and we had a chance to meet with the energetic project manager and learn about his work. The lock at the top is where the salt water from the sea meets the fresh water of the river. The picture below is a historical view from the An Taisce web site of the canal in operation.
This important part of the Irish attempt to capitalize on the Industrial Revolution was only one of the sites we visited. I mentioned earlier in the week about seeing the silver at Christ Church Cathedral donated by King William in honor of his victory in Ireland that solidified his hold on the English throne. Today, we visited the battlefield where that victory was won: The Battle of the Boyne. It was here in 1690 that protestant King William of Orange defeated the army of the Catholic King James II. There’s a recently opened visitors and interpretive center which we toured with a guide from the site. As An Taisce put it in the conference materials, “the outcome of this battle has been the source of much bitterness historically and the correct interpretation of the site has been integral to the Irish Peace Process.” The closing line of the center’s interpretive film put it a little more directly: Issues arose in the battle that “reverberate to today.” The good efforts to focus on how different parts of Ireland view the battle and its outcome were obvious, showing another way historic places resonate even today. You could say that Irish history isn’t even history because it is as fresh as the morning’s news.
I’ve attached a couple of photos from the center and the countryside, which also show an unfortunate highway bridge that dominates the landscape from the critical view in front of the interpretive center.
Every two years the world’s preservation and heritage conservation community comes together for the International Conference of National Trusts, a wonderful gathering of colleagues and friends working together across the globe to protect, enhance and responsibly enjoy our planet’s fragile heritage. To read my full post on the opening of ICNT13, check out the PreservationNation blog on the National Trust web site.